The groove between isolation and shelter is always there in the line of Hed Mayner’s clothes; it is in the heaviness of French linen canvas, the rustle of wide sleeves, the weight of straight-leg pants.
SS22 is a study of the terrain that runs both through and around us.
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The collection thrums with an opulent eagerness to be out and on the move.
It imagines clothing as home, a place where you carry everything with you. A racerback vest is covered in a paranoia of square pockets. Roomy coveralls are ruched at the hips and finished with shirt cuff sleeves. Robust straight-leg cargo pants are wide to the floor and hit the top of flat sneakers or braided sandals.
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Roomy gilets have a single flap pocket on the back; a languid tabard, split at the back, doubles as a cape. Shirts are constructed to appear layered as if hastily worn. A tailored suit is in washed moleskin.
Mayner treats workwear with pragmatic vigour. The line is elongated – in Mayner’s way – but heavier.
The gesture pressed into the clothes is brutal, like the craggy landscape around them.
There is a nomadic vastness to the silhouette; belted hats protect and cocoon. Sleeves pool around the wrist when stuffed into pockets. Pants are cuffed.
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Moving away from traditional sartorial textiles, classic Hed Mayner styles are recontextualised in hardy cotton drills, linen canvas and Japanese washed cottons, each chosen for their corporeal heft.
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The drills evoke the durability of nineties streetwear; heavy linen canvas echoes the uniforms of 19th century labourers. Copper, rust, cobalt blue, stone, rose quartz – the palette is washed, worn and faded by the harsh sun.
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Mayner’s proportions are shrugged on, generously layered, one on top of another. More interior than exterior, a space to explore, his clothes are about telling stories: giving, moving, being.
