The clash of handcrafted historical pieces with a hyper futuristic attitude. A collection about self-identity and instinct, an experimentation that has always been the heart of Acne Studios.
“We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and experimentation. The look is provocative and hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then subverted,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.
Finding strength in contrast, there are four main themes: chiffon matched with leather; plaid contrasted with lingerie; crochet and knits that are toughened up; handcrafted corsets that are exploded and unleashed.
It’s about a juxtaposition of grandeur with fierce energy, and the possibilities of play.
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Chiffon shirts have an etched baroque print, held by ties at the neck and chest, and trailing from the oversized cuff. Aged leather button-fronted mini skirts have buckled belts attached, like the straps of a saddle. A high-necked long sleeve short leather dress is patchworked from purposefully irregular rectangles, with corset lacing that holds an open seam from armhole to hem. Just as strong is a full length printed chiffon dress, its keyhole decolletage held by ties.
Panels of plaid are applied to a mesh base to create a little jacket with jewelled buttons, worn with a soft jersey rib skirt that plays with lingerie detailing, like hook and eye fastenings and suspenders. Sheer jersey socks continue the story, with corset lacing that goes all the way to the knee. A tank top is cut from a plaid shirt, matched with a rib knit shrug and white leather pants patchworked from a blown-up baroque pattern.
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A white off-the-shoulder jumpsuit is knitted in a diamond crochet stitch, the elegance of the neckline contrasting with the purposeful irregularity of its seams that are whip-stitched together. Silhouettes are subverted, like a portrait neckline cropped jacket in eyelash stitch worn with a little eyelash stitch skirt, while a hand-crocheted little vest is resplendent with crochet flowers, echoing the hand-crocheted bags.
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Traditionally handmade corsets are cut up and reappropriated, released from constriction but keeping their strength of line. A corset top has attached sleeves, worn with a skirt constructed as if from a corset turned upside down and inside out. A sheer wrapped dress sits under a corset that’s upside down, giving freedom of movement, while an open corset is stitched into a dress fringed with beaded florals, its squared hips created from the pattern lines of a bodice.
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Jewellery chains, necklaces and charms are as if thrown on, while small leather half-moon bags have wide guitar-like straps. Sunglasses are futuristic, mirroring the ergonomic lines of super high wooden platforms.
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The Venezuelan artist Arca has created an original composition for the show, SMOKEBENDING, to capture the sense of performance and occasion. “Arca represents everything this collection is about,” says Johansson, “and it is our honour that she created music especially for this show.”
Ph: TBC
