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"Ballroom", Leonard Paris FW 2022-23 Collection

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In the Palm Court at the New York Plaza, a feeling of luxury and opulence is in the air. A group of voguish friends meet before the party of the century. Arriving one at a time, they mingle with the happy few and guests of the hotel, elegant women in monogrammed wild silk day dresses. Georg Lux reinvents this in-between moment, where magic comes alive. A moment of reunion and anticipation where excitement rises to a new level. Under the glass roof facing the palm trees, we perceive a platinum blonde in an oversized cowboy jacket cut from pink vegan suede with bangs, but also a dandy in a long jacquard bathrobe and lavaliere collar shirt.

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The Creative Director, immersed in the House’s archives, revived the Art Nouveau motif inspired by Tiffany stained glass, which inspired the New York of the Belle Époque and the Great Gatsby. He also blends in the Andy Warhol’s Factory and the golden age of Studio 54. Interiors sketched by Jeremiah Goodman set the tone including an embroidered teddy with large jewelled buttons and a micro-bustier, emerald green, deep purple and midnight blue. The print also alters itself, on a long slit nightie or a blouse with puffed sleeves, passing by pastel colors in different shades - all of which made possible by hand printing, a LEONARD particularity since the creation of the House in 1958. 

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The light pinks, sky blues and oranges contrast with the pop color prints imagined for this collection, reinterpreting the label’s signature flowers on light blouses and dresses. The House sprinkled sportswear onto its legendary glamour, through an asymmetrical minidress and an ultra-chic train skirt in leopard-print parka fabric.

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Regarding accessories, the Elysée bag is transformed into a mini version in iridescent fuchsia and gold leathers, worn on the shoulder or at the waist. As for jewellery, it is adorned with rhinestones, declined as an XXL river to be worn as a scarf, around the neck. Also, clip-on earrings worthy of the anthology series Dynasty. Clac clac clac, the open-toed pumps and sharp heels of this diamond cruncher resonate on the tiled floor of the lobby...

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This season, the LEONARD woman, after having celebrated summer in all intimacy, brings out the big game and puts on her most fine-looking clothing to rediscover the pleasures of forgotten evenings.

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© Leonard Paris
Ph: Quentin Legallo 

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