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Courrèges’s SS23 Women’s Collection

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" The  first time is the  forever time.
The  second time is the  forever time. The  third time is the  forever time.
We begin with  no endings, but a constant returning".

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An  hourglass, moments  passing; tidal   waves, a  constant  renewal. The   potent  notion of elapsed time, looking forwards, glancing backwards, inspires Nicolas Di Felice’s Spring Summer 2023 collection for Courrèges.
The  plasticity of  their  perception of  time, a value exchange between heritage and invention, between time-consuming craft and time-saving technology, inspire. The result is the projection of an existing legacy, through a new emotion, into  an  unknown future. And the future has always been the focus of Courrèges and of fashion.

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The set, devised by French artist Theo Mercier, transforms the interior of the now-emblematic seasonal white Courrèges   box  into an annular beach which, in turns,  transforms again, evolving  into an hourglass  metaphoric of the passage of   time.  The  lyrics of the soundtrack underscore the theme, specially composed by Sene and Hyd.

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Time leads back to nature, its passage symbolized by natural structures and elemental effects drawn from the oceanic, the beach. Sand and waves contrive to express evolution, to affect garments: denims are washed, Courrèges double gabardine frayed and eroded as  if subject to  the vagaries of time. Nacre and the internal shapes of  shells loan their shapes and forms to jewellery while  coral, habitats created over thousands of  years, are mirrored in  silicone dresses and tops, themselves fashioned spaces for the body. 
Craftsmanship melds with  technology - injection moulding, three-dimensional resin printing and  scuba  fabrics are  sculpted and  shaped  using technique  drawn from couture.  There is  a dialogue between Courrèges’ archetypal shapes and materialisations and new experiments, a rapport that challenges our  perception of pieces drawn from the past and those invented anew. Courrèges gabardine and vinyl combines with  denims and leather - a neo-heritage, the precise with  the raw.

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Specific archival references are re-activated, reinterpreted. Courrèges materials and iconic shapes are reiterated; a zippered dress from 1974 loans its curvilinear lines to a series of flou dresses and tops that deconstruct around the form; a 1981 wetsuit evolves to a leather jacket, its streamlined form not only  recognisable but relevant in a new context - a translation of heritage to the attitude of today.
To look at the past as we look to the idea of the future - as a way to create for the now.
The material used on the  set is a vegetable sand made of nutshell, obtained from  100% renewable raw material.

© Courrèges

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