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Fendi Couture Autumn-Winter 2021

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“Pasolini observed Rome become modern and that is what is interesting to me: connecting eras, the old with the new, the past with the present.” Kim Jones

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If Kim Jones’ Couture debut traced his transition from England to Rome, then Autumn/Winter 2021 sees  him settle  in the  Eternal City, where  the  poetics of Roman film director Pier Paolo  Pasolini  present a lens  through which to  explore  the  capital. “Rome is a fascinating  city because it has so many  pasts and I was drawn to Pasolini because I have  always  been  inspired by his vision of the world,” explains  Jones. 
“He is something of an outsider in Roman  history, but one whose voice remains  constant.”

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Pasolini’s perspective on reality is reflected and refracted throughout, with chapters of Rome’s history interwoven and addressed within a contemporary context.  In a collection  where  nothing  is quite as it seems, where forms and  fabrics introduce infinite illusions, filmmaker Luca Guadagnino frames  the  show through his own understanding of Pasolini. “I have long admired  Luca’s work and, he is someone who, like Pasolini, touches on subjects which are relevant to now,” says Jones. 
“When  a historian  peers  into  history,  they  do  it  directly,” Guadagnino  explains.  “But when  a master filmmaker and poet like Pasolini looks into the eyes of history, his gaze is a sublimating one. Through it, history becomes  an urgent and delicate  possession   of now… the past enters the present and breathes our air.”

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Overlapping  temporalities  are  most  directly  expressed within pieces  that  reanimate antique garments, their furs and   fabrics   scanned  and   reprised   as   ghostly   silk jacquards.
Inset with Cornely embroidery and  crystal beads, they locate a poetic transfiguration of the  past  within the  present day. Elsewhere, life is breathed into  the Roman statues that surround the  FENDI Palazzo, their marble  drapery now expressed through trompe l’oeil silks, and  the  arches  they  inhabit  adapted into the heels of shoes. 
The strength of their silhouettes is translated into delicate lace  mini dresses, where  classic volutes  are conjured through intricate  embroidery.

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The immortal allure of Italian stone,  and  the  methods of its manipulation, appears as a constant conceit. 
Pietra dura inlays become supple leather intarsia; pressed leather pleats capturing the  illusory spirit of Bernini’s sculptures.
Formed  from Italian marble, hand-carved jewelry ripples with movement, as  if frozen in time. Mother of Pearl mosaics are  layered   across   tulle  dresses,  handbags,  and  shoes, while a jumper is pieced in Persian lamb.

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The   cultural   crossroads  of  Ancient Rome is reflected through a diverse cast, comprising models of all ages. 
“At the time, it was the centre of the world,” says Jones.
“I  wanted  to  include  all of the  people  who  would  have  inhabited  it then,  as well as now.” 
The  spirit  of  FENDI,  of  looking  to  this  city’s past  as  it projects towards the future, is revitalized once  more.

© Fendi

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