An enthusiastic herald of the narrative powers of fashion-making, Ulyana Sergeenko keeps telling captivating stories through her collections.
Season after season, she follows the adventures of a restless heroine whose hunger for life in its many facets is reflected in the way her wardrobe morphs and evolves as her experiences grow.
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After last season’s trip to Samarkand, the Ulyana Sergeenko woman celebrates her homecoming with a big, lavish party of pure, undiluted fun. Her character is inspired by Shirley MacLaine in the movie What a way to go (1964), which on its turn was an homage to Countess Mona von Bismarck, who used marriage as a pass to high society, befriended Truman Capote and loved pink.
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The show itself happens in Bismarck’s Parisian mansion, the interiors bathed in pink, and is an amused and amusing ode to love, a force way stronger than money.
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Ulyana Sergeenko dresses her heroine in airy feathers and fancy dresses, fur coats made with money bills and shoes with cat ears, mixing irony with glamour.
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A feline theme runs through, naughtily: cat paws are scattered on leopard prints - a first for Sergeenko - or turn into embroidery on gloves and dresses; the image of a cat becomes a structural element on corsets and dresses.
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Money is another motif, as banknotes of the Ulyana Sergeenko Bank are printed on organza and gathered on boas, coats, trains, becoming an amusing substitute to fur. Money becomes a print, too, or is rendered in hand-knitted Vologda lace.
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The season’s flower is the gladiolus - a memory of the bouquets given to the hostess of the party - appearing on jacquard skirts, dresses, and bright green and red pointy shoes. Mohair sweaters are embellished with appliqué of embroidered roses; dresses are entirely covered with colored feathers.
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Precious material such as silk organza, coated silk, silk crepe, chiffon with a shiny coating, wool and lace come in a voluptuous palette of shades of pink, from bright to muted, mixed with green, blue, light blue, yellow, gold and silver, plus white and black.
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Accessories play with the idea of illusion: shoes sprout cat ears, a wine glass becomes a handbag, a diamond tiara becomes a headband with a cat face, and a cocktail glass. High heel shoes are studded with rhinestones.
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Boas are mandatory, as are diamond-studded tiaras and voluminous hairpins-bows.
As the protagonist of the most amusing and glamorous party, the Ulyana Sergeenko woman enjoys life through the sheer joy of dressing up, adventure after adventure.
