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Courrèges, SS 2023 Collection

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A collection  like a variation on  movement. This one has the impulse of the gestures and the rituals proper to  the summer. Each moment is decomposed, each piece can be worn and removed, even to the point of nudity. The beach as a gravitational pole: hands in the air, wardrobe slung over the shoulder. 

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A collection like the feeling of summer. Wheels on  the burning asphalt; a motorcycle runs towards the beach. At its edge at sunset, surfers undress in a parking lot. The night, the party, the feet are naked on  the sand. The  dance warms up,  the excess clothing is wrapped around the waist, tied where it can. The wardrobe modulates itself  - nothing must hinder the summer and its freedom.

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The  faux  leather strap links  and connects the entire collection. On  a large windproof parka, on   a  suede  jacket, in  faded  denim, on   a  coat with   heritage  details (horizontal piped  pockets) declined in leather or suit. We find the strap on the back of the leather biker jacket, inspired by a 1981 wetsuit coming straight out of the House’s archives, flanked by a logo like a tattoo, the same one that inaugurated the first men’s  line  in  1973.  

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After  exploring the archetypes of  urban countercultures, Nicolas Di Felice, true to  his  aesthetic, deftly details those of  the beach. Pearly jewels, surf  pants or shorts, bathrobe or swimsuits and these twisted t-shirts - by a wave or a gust of wind. The Shark berlingot bag with  its geometric pattern, dear to the House, whose integrated and profiled shoulder strap is reminiscent of a shark’s fin.

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Always  playful and total, the Courrèges universe is more casual. The vintage is assumed - on a logo, a very  seventies cotton fishnet or on the pattern of a little  jacket directly coming from the iconic vinyl jacket. But the silhouette that emerges bears the beginnings of a new language where sneaker mules rub  with  sharp unisex leather jackets. Between the reinvented past and the near future, the collection exists outside of time.

© Courrèges
Ph: Robin Galiegue 

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